All about bra

Forget about the classic measuring system. It works, for some, but it�s far from reliable.

Manufacturers developed the bra sizing system over 70 years ago, and body shapes � and our understanding of them � have changed a great deal since then. Also, it was never intended for larger cup sizes. The classic bra sizing system was designed for cup sizes A to D. We now have cups up to a JJ and the same rules don�t work at both ends of the scale. You have to be wearing a bra in order to be measured, but you won�t get an accurate measurement if you are wearing the wrong size bra in the first place. If you are wearing a bra that emphasises or reduces the protrusion of your breasts, for example, you will get a different measurement. This is particularly the case for larger cup sizes.

The classic system also ignores the shape of the ribcage. If, for example, you have broad shoulders that taper to a small waist, you might end up with too large a cup size since the cup measurement won�t take your wider ribcage into account, attributing too much volume to the breasts.

So if the classic measuring system doesn�t work, what�s the alternative? The good news is you don�t need to consult an �expert� or leave the comfort and convenience of your own home to establish your correct size. You are the expert. Follow our simple steps while trying on your favourite bra in front of a mirror and you should get a clear indication of whether the size you are wearing is correct.

What a correct fitting bra looks like

Correct fitting bra (front)

1. Centre front sits flat against the body.

2. Underwire sits flat against the ribcage.

3. Breast tissue is completely encased in underwire.

4.Underwire follows the natural crease of the breast.

5. Cup fits with no bulging or gaping at the top.

Correct fitting bra (back)

6. Straps are parallel or slightly

v shaped at the back.

7. Band is level all the way round, without riding up at the back.

8.Underband is nice and snug.

9.Straps do not dig into the shoulders.

When your bra fits correctly and provides the right support, your nipple should be half way between your shoulder and your elbow.

When you lift your arms the band should not move

The recommended way to put on a bra

Step one

Lean in. Adjust the straps to their maximum length (you�ll shorten them later) and slip your arms through. Lean forward into the cups, hook up the bra at the back if you can (if not, fasten the bra at the front and then turn it around, taking care not to strain the elastics, before leaning in) and put the straps on your shoulders.

Step two

Adjust the bra. To do this slip a hand into the cup and lift the breast while holding the wire in the correct position with the other hand. Where should it sit? Look at the natural crease of the breast � the wire should fit along the crease where your breast begins while remaining on the ribcage so that it doesn�t pinch the breast tissue.

Step three

The Jiggle: Hold the wires under the breasts, lean forward and gently shake the bra to the left and right. Your breasts will fall into the cup and sit higher when you stand up straight.

Step four

Adjust the straps. Remember that it�s the bra band that provides most of a bra�s support � not the straps. The straps should therefore support the breast lightly without putting too much pressure on the shoulders; otherwise, the back of the bra will ride up and affect your posture. Drop the strap off your shoulder so that you can reach the adjusters from the side (or ask someone to help you). You only need to do this once, and the strap length will be right every time.

Our eight fitting clues

Ready? Now it�s time to put on your favourite bra, stand in front of the mirror � or, better still, ask a friend to help you � and start looking for clues.

1. BACK BAND RIDING UP

Lift up your arms to see if the underband is tight enough. Check that the underwire is still sitting on the body and that the band is not riding up at the back � if it�s riding up, this might mean that your band is too big. It should sit in a straight horizontal line across your back. If you are still unsure, here�s how to judge: the underband should fit firmly against the body so that it does not slide around or move away from the chest as you go about your daily activities.

Back of bra riding up

If you are afraid that wearing your bra band tighter will create a �back fat bulge�, try wearing the back band an inch lower than the front. It will sit on the smaller part of your body and create less of a bulge. Wider side wings are more flattering under a fitted top as they create less of a bulge.

2. SHOULDER STRAPS DIGGING IN

The underband of a bra provides the majority (80 per cent) of support for the breasts, with the straps providing just 20 per cent. If the bra straps are digging in it could be because the underband is too loose and the straps are doing most of the work to support the bust � so in this case we recommend that you try a smaller band size. Alternatively, you may just need to loosen the straps.

Shoulder straps digging in

Wearing too big a back band is one of the most common mistakes that we see. Many people confuse the back measurement with breast size, incorrectly thinking, for instance, that a 36 or 38 must be busty. Your dress size can be a helpful guide � if you are a 10 or a 12, for example, you are unlikely to need a 36 bra.

3. BACK BAND OVERSTRETCHED

Look at your back straps: they should either be parallel to each other, or converge in a slight V-shape at the back. It they are too far apart at the back (an upside down V), it could mean that your bra band is too small and overstretching. It is possible, however, that this is simply the design of the bra, so look for other clues such as the back band digging in uncomfortably.

Back band overstretched and digging into the body

4. FRONT BAND PULLING DOWN

Have a look at the underwire at the front of the bra. Does it lie just under the breast, or is it being pulled further down your ribcage? If the underwire is being dragged down to where your ribcage is slightly narrower, this is a sign that you are wearing too small a band size. It is possible that you have not put your bra on correctly � check that the underwire cannot be pulled up any higher

Bra band is too low to offer support

The underband must not be so tight that it causes discomfort or restricts movement. If this happens it is too tight.

5. CENTRE FRONT LIFTING AWAY FROM THE BODY

The centre front should lie flat against the body. If it doesn�t, this could be a sign that the cups are too small, causing the breasts to push the centre front away.

Shadowing indicates bra is standing away from the body due to the cups being too small

6. WIRE DIGGING IN

Look at the sides of the cups � it�s important that the breast is completely encased by the underwire. Is there any underwire digging into the breast tissue? If so, you might well need a larger cup size. There is also a possibility that the underband is too tight and pulling the wire so tightly against the chest that it becomes distorted and no longer follows the natural crease of your breasts. This in turn can cause the wire to dig into the bottom and side of the breast. If you find the correct underband size to begin with, you can eliminate this as a possibility.

Breast tissue bulging out of the sides of the bra

Bra manufacturers use different wires to create different styles of bra. So, if your bra fits well in all the areas outlined in this guide but the wire is still digging in, it could just be the wrong bra for you.

7. BULGING OVER THE CUP

Does any breast tissue bulge out at the top of the cup? This means the cup is too small.

Breast tissue bulging over the top of the cup

If you are unsure try a t-shirt on over the top of the bra and walk towards the mirror. The t-shirt will show up any bulges over the top of the cup.

8. CUPS TOO BAGGY

If there are creases in your cups you might want to try going down a cup size. If, however, the cup fits snugly everywhere but is gaping where the cup meets the strap, it could be that the bra is finishing too high up the chest for you. Some people are more hollow in this area than others, so square necklines that finish lower down on the chest � as in a balconette, for example � are better.

Cups are too baggy

The bra deconstructed

Have you ever wondered what bra manufacturers mean when they talk about �wings�, �slings� or �centre gores�? Here�s our jargon-busting guide to all the pieces that make up a bra � this can range from 10 pieces for a very basic style to 48 for the most complicated.

1. APEX

The apex is the part of the bra where the strap joins the cup.

2. STRAP

The strap keeps the cup in place but should not take the main weight of the breast.

3. ADJUSTER

The adjuster is used to tighten or loosen the strap accordingly. Its position on the strap can vary and depends on the design of the bra.

4. HOOK AND EYE

You can usually fasten a bra on the first, second or third hook and eye. We recommend that when you buy a new bra, it fits snugly when fastened on the loosest hook and eye. This is because your bra will stretch over time and you will need to use the middle and tightest hooks to keep it firm later on.

5. CUP

The cup is the part of the bra that supports the breast. The bottom part of the cup is often lined for extra support.

6. CENTRE FRONT / CENTRE GORE

The centre front or centre gore is the piece of the bra that fits flat against the chest in between the breasts. It is sometimes part of a cradle.

7. CRADLE

A cradle helps position the wires and cups securely against the chest. Many women therefore find bras with cradles more comfortable to wear.

8. SLING

Some bras incorporate a sling into the inner cup to provide additional support to the side of the breast to stop it from spreading out to the side. It is popular to use a sling in cups for larger breasts or for any size when the outer fabric is too delicate to provide enough support on its own.

9. WING

The wings, when fastened at the back, not only secure the bra to the body but also pull the wires into position to sit around the breast.

10. UNDERBAND / BOTTOM BAND

The underband or bottom band runs along the bottom of the bra and anchors the bra to the body. It should fit snugly against the body, providing the majority of the support for the breasts.

Styles of bra

We recommend building a bra wardrobe − a small stock of everyday bras, a speciality bra, a sports bra and a special occasion set. Here is our glossary of styles available.

Push-up

A push-up bra is designed to push your breasts inwards and upwards to create a better cleavage under those plunging necklines.

Balconette

A balconette is a sexy style of bra with a low neckline that goes straight across the bust. It has wide set straps for a square neckline. The cups are seamed to push the bust upwards to give a shelf like appearance similar to the look created by a corset.

Moulded

So called because the cup is moulded from a single piece of foam or fabric � so that it�s seamless.

T-shirt

Like a moulded bra, a t-shirt bra�s cups are seamless. What makes it a t-shirt bra is the thickness: a t-shirt bra has a level of padding to ensure that your nipples do not show through when you�re wearing a figure hugging top.

Half cup

Lingerie manufacturers do not always agree on what makes a half cup bra but as a general rule, it�s one where the cup stops just above the nipple. It is generally more suitable for a smaller cup but larger cup brands are becoming increasingly skilled at creating supportive bras that give a good impression of a half cup.

Soft cup or soft bra

A soft cup bra is one without an underwire. Maternity and sports bras tend to be soft cups, and soft cups are also a good solution for teenagers who can�t wear underwired bras while they are still growing, as well as for some larger cup size women who cannot find an underwired bra to fit.

Strapless

Indispensable under tricky tops, a strapless bra deserves a place in every wardrobe. It�s important to get the tension right: too loose, and it won�t give enough support; too tight and it will pull itself down the ribcage.

Sports

The breasts are supported by the Coopers ligaments, which stretch when you exercise. This can cause them to sag � and once this happens, they will never recover. A good sports bra, however, can cut breast movement by over 50 per cent. Look for seamless cups and cushioned fastenings to stop the bra chafing against your skin, while moisture-wicking fabrics help keep you cool. As for support, look for wide, non-stretch straps.

Full cup

Again, lingerie manufacturers don�t always agree on what makes a full cup, but a full cup bra is generally one where the cups cover the entire breast.

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